Wednesday, May 20, 2009

Cava Disappoints, but still Par for the Neighborhood

I can safely say, Cava has settled in, as just another mediocre, over-priced, Eastern Market restaurant. Despite the scene it continues to make in its opening weeks, with local - and I mean really local - big-wigs popping in to try its food and savor the long bar, I would suggest nothing more than a drink or two, and perhaps one small plate. During my first visit I tried Greek specialties - feta cheese, honey, hummus, pita bread - and was rewarded. But at the owner's urging, who claimed "everything on the menu is excellent, there's nothing I wouldn't recommend," I ventured further afield my the second time around.

And was sorely disappointed for my efforts. The mushroom trahana, a greek take on grits, was serviceable, but bland. So too, the roasted mussels. The disco fries, by which the management swears, were a complete disaster: The fries were gelatinous and cold; the braised pork topping was certainly tough, but left me wondering if the chef had forgotten that part about making the meat actually palatable; and the sour cream dollops failed to bring the dish together - indeed they broke the mushed fries apart as I attempted to free them from their earthen serving bowl. Meatballs from the grill, ensconced in a red sauce, were the exception for the evening. Unfortunately, here, presentation failed miserably, as each meatball looked like a singular turd on my plate.

The staff could definitely use some tips on service as well. Waiting 20-25 minutes for a refresh on my beverage is unacceptable in all circumstances. But being forced to endure such a long dry spell, while sitting at the bar, attended by 3 bartenders, wears on credulity. Perhaps the service limitations have already been recognized. The fancily named Artemis, Persephone, and other deity-dubbed cocktails, have all been replaced by simple ingredient lists. Apparently, a half dozen themed drinks were too much to remember for most of the staff. And again, no dessert? Twice now, I've sat down for cocktails, an entire course of small plates, followed by more cocktails, but have yet to be offered a choice of dessert. And no, last-minute, thrown-together, defrosted baklava, served up by a cook who's already taken her hat off for the evening, is not my idea of a fine finish to the meal.

Rating: 5/10
In Short: Questionable service has given way to poor service, and many non-Greek or complex dishes are downright bad. Keep it simple: cheese; hummus. Still, a prime location with a cool, airy interior, and (presumably, soon) a rooftop patio.
Website: http://dc.cavamezze.com/site/home
Location: 527 8th Street SE, 20003

1 comment:

Ted said...

What I do not understand is how someone with no formal culinary training decides to start a blog that no one reads, and than goes on to write things that make no sense. The baklava is not frozen at CAVA, it is made fresh daily just like every other food we serve. We do not use microwaves or freezers. Our food rating is 26/30 in zagat and maybe if you tried the lamb chops, scallops over risotto or even the crab cakes, you might have known that the food is fresh and falvorful. You ask for presentation and than you complain about being over priced. Barracks Row is slowly becoming a great place to dine, with Belga, Cava, Matchbox and another slate of establishments planning to open in the next year. The only thing average is your writing and your blog. I especially enjoyed the polls with 3 responses... outstanding research if I might say so myself. If you ever want to be a real foodie, you can email me at ted@cavamezze.com and I will take you into the kitchen to see how freshly prepared all our foods are. We have 4 words we live by.. simple, fresh, quality, service