New Tapas Place Faces off Market, Mini-Burgers

The Eastern Market/Barracks Row blocks in Southeast are bucking current market trends – or at least trying to - with several restaurant openings in recent weeks. First, Matchbox opened its second site in the Capitol on Barracks Row, perhaps looking to take advantage of the increasingly populated area thanks to Nationals baseball. Now comes Cava, a Greek mezze-style (tapas) restaurant. Cava boasts lamb mini-sliders that are set to take on, and perhaps dethrone Matchbox’s heralded mini-burgers. With a smooth buttery taste – thanks to a blend of yogurt and feta - and a complement of arugula that engulfs the precisely-cooked tendrils of leg, Cava provides a fresher and tenderer alternative to Matchbox’s too-often dried out minis. But that’s not all: feta cheese dipped in honey is perfectly evocative of what a shepherd would have offered to a wandering Odysseus, while the pita arrives warm from the oven and the olives are succulent. The inside décor has received considerable attention as well. The dangling globe-lights hovering at varying lengths above the tables are something out of a midsummer night, looking as much like natural luminescence from lighting bugs as anything else. Lighting farther back in the restaurant and above the bar is elegantly recessed and unobtrusive, while the flat-screen televisions above the bar are unimposing, yet good resolution. According to the chief bartender, the first week for Cava has been a good trial run for the staff, busy, but not overwhelming. Indeed, by my count late on a Sunday night, staff at the bar outnumbered patrons 3:1.

That’s not to say the opening has been completely flawless. The signature “Persephone” cocktail was absent because the bar had run out of Maker’s Mark. And while the man behind the bar put together a cool and refreshing raspberry mojito, I was less impressed with “Artemis,” as the drink's citrus combination became lost in the added sugar. The asparagus frittata, while ably prepared, could perhaps be removed to the brunch menu. Finally, the barstools leave something to be desired, namely, a back rest. With just a few inches of support, the stools certainly don’t allow for much relaxing, but then, for most of my meal I was hunched with anticipation of my next bite. Also annoying, paying for the pita. I don’t expect to be charged for bread and butter in a French restaurant, and shouldn’t be incurring this “fee” here either. But in this already overpriced area, Cava doesn’t significantly differ from its neighborhood competitors. As can be expected in the first week, service was off. The hostess informed me the kitchen was open until 10, but several minutes after the hour, I was being rushed through the check and my last drink. I hadn’t intended to order dessert, but I had barely a chance to digest, much less savor my meal, before I was being ushered out. This, despite the fact several tables were still occupied in the main dining room. And the owner, seated next to me, didn’t seem moved to correct the hurrying attitude of the staff.

There’s much to look forward at Cava, and with only a few mistakes marring what was still opening week, I expect the kinks will be worked out soon enough. In addition to the main dining room and bar, there’s a second floor – perfect for private parties, I’m told - as well as a soon-to-be opened rooftop area. I wouldn’t mind returning to look out over the neighborhood while enjoying something from the cellar or a signature drink. In this evolving restaurant row, Cava opened at an inopportune moment, but for tapas-style meals, Cava’s mezze can’t be beat short of a journey to downtown. I'll check back to update this conditional rating, once Cava is in the swing of things...

Rating: 7/10 (conditional)
In Short: The best tapas, and perhaps the best meal available, in and around Eastern Market, where restaurants are habitually overpriced and mediocre. Good bartending, but questionable service in its first week since opening. (conditional)
Website: http://dc.cavamezze.com/site/home
Location: 527 8th Street SE, 20003