Cava Disappoints, but still Par for the Neighborhood

I can safely say, Cava has settled in, as just another mediocre, over-priced, Eastern Market restaurant. Despite the scene it continues to make in its opening weeks, with local - and I mean really local - big-wigs popping in to try its food and savor the long bar, I would suggest nothing more than a drink or two, and perhaps one small plate. During my first visit I tried Greek specialties - feta cheese, honey, hummus, pita bread - and was rewarded. But at the owner's urging, who claimed "everything on the menu is excellent, there's nothing I wouldn't recommend," I ventured further afield my the second time around.

And was sorely disappointed for my efforts. The mushroom trahana, a greek take on grits, was serviceable, but bland. So too, the roasted mussels. The disco fries, by which the management swears, were a complete disaster: The fries were gelatinous and cold; the braised pork topping was certainly tough, but left me wondering if the chef had forgotten that part about making the meat actually palatable; and the sour cream dollops failed to bring the dish together - indeed they broke the mushed fries apart as I attempted to free them from their earthen serving bowl. Meatballs from the grill, ensconced in a red sauce, were the exception for the evening. Unfortunately, here, presentation failed miserably, as each meatball looked like a singular turd on my plate.

The staff could definitely use some tips on service as well. Waiting 20-25 minutes for a refresh on my beverage is unacceptable in all circumstances. But being forced to endure such a long dry spell, while sitting at the bar, attended by 3 bartenders, wears on credulity. Perhaps the service limitations have already been recognized. The fancily named Artemis, Persephone, and other deity-dubbed cocktails, have all been replaced by simple ingredient lists. Apparently, a half dozen themed drinks were too much to remember for most of the staff. And again, no dessert? Twice now, I've sat down for cocktails, an entire course of small plates, followed by more cocktails, but have yet to be offered a choice of dessert. And no, last-minute, thrown-together, defrosted baklava, served up by a cook who's already taken her hat off for the evening, is not my idea of a fine finish to the meal.

Rating: 5/10
In Short: Questionable service has given way to poor service, and many non-Greek or complex dishes are downright bad. Keep it simple: cheese; hummus. Still, a prime location with a cool, airy interior, and (presumably, soon) a rooftop patio.
Website: http://dc.cavamezze.com/site/home
Location: 527 8th Street SE, 20003

New Tapas Place Faces off Market, Mini-Burgers

The Eastern Market/Barracks Row blocks in Southeast are bucking current market trends – or at least trying to - with several restaurant openings in recent weeks. First, Matchbox opened its second site in the Capitol on Barracks Row, perhaps looking to take advantage of the increasingly populated area thanks to Nationals baseball. Now comes Cava, a Greek mezze-style (tapas) restaurant. Cava boasts lamb mini-sliders that are set to take on, and perhaps dethrone Matchbox’s heralded mini-burgers. With a smooth buttery taste – thanks to a blend of yogurt and feta - and a complement of arugula that engulfs the precisely-cooked tendrils of leg, Cava provides a fresher and tenderer alternative to Matchbox’s too-often dried out minis. But that’s not all: feta cheese dipped in honey is perfectly evocative of what a shepherd would have offered to a wandering Odysseus, while the pita arrives warm from the oven and the olives are succulent. The inside décor has received considerable attention as well. The dangling globe-lights hovering at varying lengths above the tables are something out of a midsummer night, looking as much like natural luminescence from lighting bugs as anything else. Lighting farther back in the restaurant and above the bar is elegantly recessed and unobtrusive, while the flat-screen televisions above the bar are unimposing, yet good resolution. According to the chief bartender, the first week for Cava has been a good trial run for the staff, busy, but not overwhelming. Indeed, by my count late on a Sunday night, staff at the bar outnumbered patrons 3:1.

That’s not to say the opening has been completely flawless. The signature “Persephone” cocktail was absent because the bar had run out of Maker’s Mark. And while the man behind the bar put together a cool and refreshing raspberry mojito, I was less impressed with “Artemis,” as the drink's citrus combination became lost in the added sugar. The asparagus frittata, while ably prepared, could perhaps be removed to the brunch menu. Finally, the barstools leave something to be desired, namely, a back rest. With just a few inches of support, the stools certainly don’t allow for much relaxing, but then, for most of my meal I was hunched with anticipation of my next bite. Also annoying, paying for the pita. I don’t expect to be charged for bread and butter in a French restaurant, and shouldn’t be incurring this “fee” here either. But in this already overpriced area, Cava doesn’t significantly differ from its neighborhood competitors. As can be expected in the first week, service was off. The hostess informed me the kitchen was open until 10, but several minutes after the hour, I was being rushed through the check and my last drink. I hadn’t intended to order dessert, but I had barely a chance to digest, much less savor my meal, before I was being ushered out. This, despite the fact several tables were still occupied in the main dining room. And the owner, seated next to me, didn’t seem moved to correct the hurrying attitude of the staff.

There’s much to look forward at Cava, and with only a few mistakes marring what was still opening week, I expect the kinks will be worked out soon enough. In addition to the main dining room and bar, there’s a second floor – perfect for private parties, I’m told - as well as a soon-to-be opened rooftop area. I wouldn’t mind returning to look out over the neighborhood while enjoying something from the cellar or a signature drink. In this evolving restaurant row, Cava opened at an inopportune moment, but for tapas-style meals, Cava’s mezze can’t be beat short of a journey to downtown. I'll check back to update this conditional rating, once Cava is in the swing of things...

Rating: 7/10 (conditional)
In Short: The best tapas, and perhaps the best meal available, in and around Eastern Market, where restaurants are habitually overpriced and mediocre. Good bartending, but questionable service in its first week since opening. (conditional)
Website: http://dc.cavamezze.com/site/home
Location: 527 8th Street SE, 20003