A Heaping Helping of Bad

I’ve mentioned this before, but will continue to flog this horse: dining on Barracks Row and around Eastern Market ranges from mediocre to horrible. My first impressions of Cava – the new Mediterranean tapas place – were woefully off course; I refuse to ever pick over the dried-out sub-continent servings from Pennsylvania Avenue’s Aatish on the Hill again; Jordan’s 8, which just celebrated an anniversary, deserves to go out of business with its lack of service (asking for utensils three times seems a bit much, but perhaps the staff was trying to do me a favor), slapdash treatment of vegetables (is cooked spinach really quite difficult), and a ravioli that could be bested by something from a can; and to top off the list Banana Café – reputedly a “Mexican” joint – can’t even produce a decent fajita that isn’t slathered in grease or an ingredient that doesn't look as if it came from the "international" section of Walmart's food aisle.

Matchbox is a lonely exception to this drek, and now comes news that the owners will be opening up a new spot a few doors down, dubbed Ted’s Bulletin. Hill Rag reports that Ted’s, an American diner, is expected to open up in February of 2010. The owners suggested that this prime location would have been snapped up anyways, so they decided to preempt such competition. However, given the current state of dining in the neighborhood, Ted’s fiercest competition will likely be its corporate pizza- and mini-burger-serving cousin next door.

Meanwhile, closer to the ballpark, at the corner of 3rd St. and K St. SE, the Cornercopia deli and cornerstore has debuted. Check back soon for a review of its sandwich offerings…

Cava Disappoints, but still Par for the Neighborhood

I can safely say, Cava has settled in, as just another mediocre, over-priced, Eastern Market restaurant. Despite the scene it continues to make in its opening weeks, with local - and I mean really local - big-wigs popping in to try its food and savor the long bar, I would suggest nothing more than a drink or two, and perhaps one small plate. During my first visit I tried Greek specialties - feta cheese, honey, hummus, pita bread - and was rewarded. But at the owner's urging, who claimed "everything on the menu is excellent, there's nothing I wouldn't recommend," I ventured further afield my the second time around.

And was sorely disappointed for my efforts. The mushroom trahana, a greek take on grits, was serviceable, but bland. So too, the roasted mussels. The disco fries, by which the management swears, were a complete disaster: The fries were gelatinous and cold; the braised pork topping was certainly tough, but left me wondering if the chef had forgotten that part about making the meat actually palatable; and the sour cream dollops failed to bring the dish together - indeed they broke the mushed fries apart as I attempted to free them from their earthen serving bowl. Meatballs from the grill, ensconced in a red sauce, were the exception for the evening. Unfortunately, here, presentation failed miserably, as each meatball looked like a singular turd on my plate.

The staff could definitely use some tips on service as well. Waiting 20-25 minutes for a refresh on my beverage is unacceptable in all circumstances. But being forced to endure such a long dry spell, while sitting at the bar, attended by 3 bartenders, wears on credulity. Perhaps the service limitations have already been recognized. The fancily named Artemis, Persephone, and other deity-dubbed cocktails, have all been replaced by simple ingredient lists. Apparently, a half dozen themed drinks were too much to remember for most of the staff. And again, no dessert? Twice now, I've sat down for cocktails, an entire course of small plates, followed by more cocktails, but have yet to be offered a choice of dessert. And no, last-minute, thrown-together, defrosted baklava, served up by a cook who's already taken her hat off for the evening, is not my idea of a fine finish to the meal.

Rating: 5/10
In Short: Questionable service has given way to poor service, and many non-Greek or complex dishes are downright bad. Keep it simple: cheese; hummus. Still, a prime location with a cool, airy interior, and (presumably, soon) a rooftop patio.
Website: http://dc.cavamezze.com/site/home
Location: 527 8th Street SE, 20003

New Tapas Place Faces off Market, Mini-Burgers

The Eastern Market/Barracks Row blocks in Southeast are bucking current market trends – or at least trying to - with several restaurant openings in recent weeks. First, Matchbox opened its second site in the Capitol on Barracks Row, perhaps looking to take advantage of the increasingly populated area thanks to Nationals baseball. Now comes Cava, a Greek mezze-style (tapas) restaurant. Cava boasts lamb mini-sliders that are set to take on, and perhaps dethrone Matchbox’s heralded mini-burgers. With a smooth buttery taste – thanks to a blend of yogurt and feta - and a complement of arugula that engulfs the precisely-cooked tendrils of leg, Cava provides a fresher and tenderer alternative to Matchbox’s too-often dried out minis. But that’s not all: feta cheese dipped in honey is perfectly evocative of what a shepherd would have offered to a wandering Odysseus, while the pita arrives warm from the oven and the olives are succulent. The inside décor has received considerable attention as well. The dangling globe-lights hovering at varying lengths above the tables are something out of a midsummer night, looking as much like natural luminescence from lighting bugs as anything else. Lighting farther back in the restaurant and above the bar is elegantly recessed and unobtrusive, while the flat-screen televisions above the bar are unimposing, yet good resolution. According to the chief bartender, the first week for Cava has been a good trial run for the staff, busy, but not overwhelming. Indeed, by my count late on a Sunday night, staff at the bar outnumbered patrons 3:1.

That’s not to say the opening has been completely flawless. The signature “Persephone” cocktail was absent because the bar had run out of Maker’s Mark. And while the man behind the bar put together a cool and refreshing raspberry mojito, I was less impressed with “Artemis,” as the drink's citrus combination became lost in the added sugar. The asparagus frittata, while ably prepared, could perhaps be removed to the brunch menu. Finally, the barstools leave something to be desired, namely, a back rest. With just a few inches of support, the stools certainly don’t allow for much relaxing, but then, for most of my meal I was hunched with anticipation of my next bite. Also annoying, paying for the pita. I don’t expect to be charged for bread and butter in a French restaurant, and shouldn’t be incurring this “fee” here either. But in this already overpriced area, Cava doesn’t significantly differ from its neighborhood competitors. As can be expected in the first week, service was off. The hostess informed me the kitchen was open until 10, but several minutes after the hour, I was being rushed through the check and my last drink. I hadn’t intended to order dessert, but I had barely a chance to digest, much less savor my meal, before I was being ushered out. This, despite the fact several tables were still occupied in the main dining room. And the owner, seated next to me, didn’t seem moved to correct the hurrying attitude of the staff.

There’s much to look forward at Cava, and with only a few mistakes marring what was still opening week, I expect the kinks will be worked out soon enough. In addition to the main dining room and bar, there’s a second floor – perfect for private parties, I’m told - as well as a soon-to-be opened rooftop area. I wouldn’t mind returning to look out over the neighborhood while enjoying something from the cellar or a signature drink. In this evolving restaurant row, Cava opened at an inopportune moment, but for tapas-style meals, Cava’s mezze can’t be beat short of a journey to downtown. I'll check back to update this conditional rating, once Cava is in the swing of things...

Rating: 7/10 (conditional)
In Short: The best tapas, and perhaps the best meal available, in and around Eastern Market, where restaurants are habitually overpriced and mediocre. Good bartending, but questionable service in its first week since opening. (conditional)
Website: http://dc.cavamezze.com/site/home
Location: 527 8th Street SE, 20003

Taking in the Ballpark

Went out to the ballpark tonight. I sought out Ben's Chili Bowl half-smokes and fries. Grabbed a Yeungling beer. And sat down to enjoy the big screen television showing the White Sox or some such team. What could I possibly add to the Ben's Chili Bowl legend - the much written about and even more often savored U St. "House" of half-smokes. The CinC loves Ben's; Cosby loves Ben's; and D.C. loves Ben's. Everything I write here is redundant. So let me just say I had an outstanding dinner at the Nationals stadium tonight. The margaritas weren't bad either! Did I love the food enough to wait a full two hours for the rain delay to end and the game to commence? No. But I'll be headed back soon enough to get the best eats in Near Southeast and watch my Cubbies.

Rating: 7/10
In Short: The best dogs and beer in the southeast quadrant are found at the Nationals ballpark. Just don't forget the your credit card, because the stadium is definitely not cheap eats.
Website: http://washington.nationals.mlb.com/was/ballpark/index.jsp
Location: 1500 South Capitol Street SE, 20003

Season Promises Culinary Drought

According to the front page of the Washington Post today, the Nationals neighborhood - I prefer the Navy Yard moniker, but there are plenty others - will be devoid of places to drink and eat this coming year. Indeed, other than Five Guys, Subway, and the soon-to-be-opened Corner Copia Deli at 2nd St. and K Southeast, there isn't anything else closer than Barracks Row or Penn. Ave. Of course, that's only a few minutes walk away, but it's not very convenient for a fan arriving at the Navy Yard Metro.

So, in an effort to rejuvenate the drink offerings, Velocity condos is now reportedly going to have a first floor sports pub. Still, this will likely have to wait til next year. Even if the permits were in the works, I haven't heard of any neighborhood ANC discussions, which are a necessary prerequisite for such an establishment. A beer tent may open on Half St. Southeast as well, but the best food may be in the stadium itself.

All things considered, what with an abysmal team and cheapskate history (witness last year's refusal to pay rent), Lerner ownership seems to be intent on turning around the food and drink available at the ballpark. Levy Restaurants has taken over concessions at the park, and while I won't be making a special trip to "dine out" at the park's Red Porch restaurant, I will be looking forward to the presumably better eats that will be on offer during games. Available beers will be improved upon as well. Of course, "fine" food and drink was promised the first year, yet the few fans that showed up to games were commonly greeted with long lines and high prices for something as simple as a hot dog. For now, the best place - in my mind - to eat and drink before a game remains my house... But with tickets to several upcoming games, I look forward to having my mind changed for me.

'Hood's Incoming Eats

Rumors are flying on a nearly daily basis now as to what the first new restaurants to pop up in Near Southeast/Ballpark will be. So far, the condos have it in spades over the apartment buildings. Capitol Hill Tower and Velocity condos are both poised to announce retaurants deals for their respective ground floor spaces. Other new-construction apartment buildings in the neighborhood are lagging behind, or are just further back in the construction process.

In any case, Italian and American-style (think Great American Restaurant) are the rumored cuisine of the future eat spots. Which will get an official announcement first? Well, boxes have been sighted on the first floor retail space of Capitol Hill Tower, but only time will tell.

What's New in Navy Yard?

The Navy Yard neighborhood, officially dubbed the Capitol Riverfront, is booming in terms of new high-rise condos and mixed-use development. Everywhere, buildings are going up with construction firms promising spaces for living, shopping, and eating, all in one location. So, where's the beef, or for that matter, anything other than fast food? Residents in 1000 New Jersey Ave., one of the earliest plots to complete construction around the new Navy Yard, have been eagerly awaiting a restaurant on the first floor of their building for several years now - indeed since 2006. Word is that one serious prospective tennant for this space has opted to concentrate its expansion efforts elsewhere, at least for the time being. Tonic Restaurant has locations in Mount Pleasant and Foggy Bottom, and is reportedly looking to move across the river into the Orange Line corridor of Arlington. So, seared scallops, "Monday Wine Nights," and people watching with a beer in hand on New Jersey Ave., will have to wait a while longer.

Irish-type Bar Turns Up a Decent Meal

Miller and other cheap American beers flowed freely at the Clarendon Ballroom on a recent Thursday, during happy hour, amid the Washington area's infamous humidity. This spot, with a spacious interior and popular roof deck, in Orange line-adjacent Arlington, is located near multiple bars and restaurants. But a question always lurks for visitors to these Metro stop 'hoods: which of these cookie cutter locales can provide a decent meal that doesn't have the patron regretting the whole ride home. Unlike the morning walk of shame, the memories of which will fade, those wasted calories, spent on a post-happy hour meal are going to stay with you for a while. So, it was with low expectations that I wandered into the nearby Ri Ra "Irish pub."

The area is rife with self-stylized Irish bars. Going west from Rosslyn, a partial list of such pubs includes Courthouse's Four Courts (with some spectacularly packed trivia nights) and Kitty O'Shea's, Clarendon's O'Sullivan's, and Sine's further south in Pentagon City. Just a step from the Metro at Clarendon, Ri Ra has a typical bar menu, with atypically few high definition televisions. This would normally draw praise at a D.C. restaurant, but should I have to squint to see the score of the ballgame in a traditional bar? After waiting about 15 minutes for a waiter - and then having to go request the privilege of being brought water and drinks - the rest of the meal was satisfactory, if uneventful. Orders were taken without error, service was moderately attentive, and the array of sandwiches - chicken bistro, spicy chicken, and some burgers - delivered as promised. A dining room that started the early evening relatively empty soon filled up with post-happy hour patrons, but the high ceilings and distances between tables help avoid a claustrophobic feeling, even if they did nothing to diminish the din. Guinness is readily served, but the availability of a dry and serviceable California Riesling was a nice surprise too.

Rating: 4/10
In Short: Adequate menu and mediocre service make this a serviceable stop for local workers.
Website: http://www.rira.com/
Location: 2915 Wilson Boulevard, Arlington, VA 22201